Tuesday, October 27, 2015

"NOMAD SOUL" SPECIAL PROJECT

Second 'Special Project' in 2015! It was emerging between my thoughts once in a while for some time before I was finally motivated to work on it. The crucial point for me was to accidentally bump into an online Painting Contest at Data-Sphere forum. I already had the concept and materials to make this piece so an opportunity for a nice competition was the final push I needed.

This time I choose a Nomad miniature as a centerpiece of the Diorama. It is my favorite faction in Infinity the Game, and the Grenzer model I've picked just 'screamed' to let him ride that awesome haqqislamic bike. The pose was almost right if only I done something with the coat and the only thing holding me at bay was a pair of hands. In the end I used original Sniper Rifle left hand of a Grenzer, Shotgun right hand of a Jagguar and stripped a Spektr of both arms.PanOceanic antennae was added and after rearrangement of the pose some Green Stuff Sculpting had done the rest.


 A 'concept art' which shows my overpowering drawing skills.

First step was to arrange the miniature on a bike.

Some conversion and Greenstuff sculpting.

Next step was to create a diorama thus fulfilling my mind's eye concept. I've picked a nice candle for a diorama's base and starterd to work with main arrangement of things...

Preparation of diorama.

Basics of diorama and miniature composiotion.

Facture added.

Then came the 'Painting Time'. Usually I start by painting the miniature but this particular project was an exception. I've started with diorama instead to be certain that in the end I will be able to paint it correctly. Painting rust and dust is still new to me.

Diorama paintjob in progress.

Once I was sattisfied with diorama's result I've focused all of my attention on the miniature. I tried to begin in accordance with Angel Giraldez's online Kum Bike tutorial and it wen't rather off at some point. Still I was able to create something unexpected and extraoridinary if compared to my other miniatures.

The actual miniature preshaded and with red armour in midpainting.

Something to look like NMM appeared on the bike. Armour lined and shades appplied.

Closing to finish line I've figured that something went really wrong. I couldn't pinpoint the cause - just felt taken aback while observing the pice. It took me half a day of painting different miniatures to finally understand: The diorama sucked! It was a total disaster! There was not enough space for the biker which was posed so that only a small part was visible. Black rant of the base made too much bad contrast while the candle... oh the candle justed didn't fit...
It went wrong in the forums too as I was told that my 'OSL looks more like a nuclear blast' to which I actually agreed...

Bad - bad diorama... bad nuclear blast...

I've made my mind then and remade the diorama totally. I cut the stuff into pieces which I used to create foundation for another 'faster, harder, better, stronger' diorama. This time I picked a much more suitable base for it too. I also fallowed an advice of Claudius Sol and dimmed the OSL.

Diorama cut and rebased.

At some point the diorama needed just the final touches.

Here's the final piece:

"NOMAD SOUL"

More pictures can be found at:


Hope that you like it.If so, you can vote at: http://www.coolminiornot.com/388428

Steel for humans...
Silver for monsters...
Brush for miniatures ;)

Saturday, October 17, 2015

TUTORIAL: PAINTING 'FIVE LAYERS' METAL

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint metal with 'Five Layers Technique'.

Introduction: Five Layers Technique is easy to learn, simple and rewarding. You can apply almost any colour with it. It may be used both as an Army Paining method or a groundwork for much more advanced paintjob. I personally use this technique most of the time. To learn more please visit: TUTORIAL: 'FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE'

Colour Recipe:

Black undercoat,
Tin Bitz (GW) / Warplock Bronze (GW) / Blighted Gold (P3)
Boltgun Metal (GW) / Gun Metal (AP) 
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)
Devlan Mud (wash GW) / Strong Tone (shade AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)

[Remember] You can exchange particular paint for any substitute as long as you keep colour intensity close.

Basics: Use Black undercoat. The first layer of metal should be painted Tin Bitz. The paintjob must be as thorough as possible, paint should be delivered into recesses but be sure to keep all the details sharp. You can add some water to ease the process. Next, using Boltgun Metal paint all the protruding and flat areas leaving Tin Bitz visible in recesses and near the edges. Using Mithril Silver paint edges, centres of flat areas and all the bulges. Wash all with Devlan Mud (wash a lot). In the end just edge all with Mithril Silver. You can also paint some small scratches and lines in the middle of flat areas.

This picture shows exactly how layers should overlap each other.

Example:


Black undercoat,

Tin Bitz thorough layer,

Boltgun Metal (scruffy),

Mithril Silver bulges, protuberances, flat middles,

Devlan Mud wash (a lot),

Dried out Devlan Mud,

Mithril Silver edges, lines, middles,


You should end up with a quick and easy way of painting metal thath both shines with light reflexes and has a nice overall facture. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.

Remember:
Steel for humans...
Silver for monsters...
Brush for miniatures ;)

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

TECHNICAL BREAK - I'M HEADING NORTH - FAREWELL KRAKÓW

Hey guys,

The day has come - soon I'm moving out of Kraków and heading north to live in Toruń city. I had to say good bye to my old WORKBENCH setup. Between 16th and 22nd of October I may be unable to respond to your e-mails and facebook messages. I will still pick up any miniatures sent to me tho. Unfortunately i need time to create a new setup and arrange things on the spot. Because of this all commissions will be 'on hold' till 22nd of October. 


See you soon!

Friday, October 9, 2015

TUTORIAL: 'FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE'

Here is a technique that I have developed through years of painting and find it most usefull up to this day.

Introduction: Five Layers Technique is a basic technique of choosing and applying colours. I especially reccomend it for begginers as it is simple, easy to learn, fast and rewarding. You can apply almost every colour using this technique and achieve good results as long as you choose proper paints to do so. It is especially good for either painting entire army 'tabbletop level' or preparing a miniature for much more complex paintjob.

The main concept of Five Layers Technique is to paint different colours using five layers of paint. Starting with a foundation layer, covered with base layer, finished with highlights, all being washed and edged. Here's an example of how does it look like when finished:


Choosing colours: It does not matter if you have a steady hand and a lot of patience - if you pick your paints badly this method will not work. Choosing proper colours is the key to succeed. The colours should pe picked in this order:

* Base layer: pick up a medium tone colour,
* Foundation layer: choose darked version of the base colour,
- The exception to this rule is if you would like to keep the colour bright such as bone, vibrant purple, creme, yellow, etc. In this case a little bit brighter, preferrably pastelle foundation colour will do.
* Finish layer: choose a brighter version of the base colour.
- Try to keep it the same distance as it is between Base and Foundation layer.
* Wash layer: use either same colour wash or brown.
-  Brown wash fits in most cases. Be aware tho - it will do much damage if you pair it with pink, purple, violet or white.

Here's and example of a proper layer set:


Applying colours: Let's talk about how to apply choosen colours. There are some rules that must be followed. Below is the order and all the important leads:

- Foundation layer: Must be painted thoroghly. Paint should be delivered into recesses and cover all the flat areas, in the same time it must be kept from obscuring details too much. Some water may be added to the paint to ease the process.

- Base layer: May be painted scruffy and without dedication. Paint should be applied to all the flat areas and bulges leaving some of the Founation layer visible around it. Protruding areas should be 'base' covered wholly. I susually use flat brush for this layer to quicken the process and leave some Foundation layer visible without effort.

- Finish layer: Is the hardest part. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered. Some 'edging' may be done but next layer will render it almost invisible.

- Wash layer: Is the easy part. A lot of wash should be applied onto efery surface with no regard for details. Medium brush is good for the job as brushes too small won't keep a lot of wash in them.

- Finish layer: Goes once again. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered but some parts of previous Finish layer should stay visible. At this point 'edging' is desirable.

Here's a step-by-step example of this method:


That's it :) Below are some colours recepee examples for this tutorial:

 Foundation: Khorne Red (GW), Karak Stone (GW), Xereus Purple (GW), Tausept Ochre (GW), Stegadon Scale Green (GW), Regal Blue (GW),

 Base: Wazdakka Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP), Liche Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW), Hawk Turquise (GW), Ultramarine Blue (GW), 

 Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

 Wash: Red Tone Ink (AP), Strong Tone Ink (AP, Purple Ink (AP), Seraphim Sepia (GW), Turquise Ink (P3), Blue Tone Ink (AP),

 This how it looks like when Wash dries up,

Final Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful.

Remember:
Steel for humans...
Silver for monsters...
Brush for miniatures ;)